NiKbannerII

South Africa (Krüger N.P., Garden Route, Cape Peninsula)

Our Route:
FMO - FRA - JNB - MQP - Nelspruit - Krüger National Park - Kwa Madwala Game Reserve - MQP - JNB - PLZ - Port Elizabeth - Tsitsikamma National Park - Knysna - Plettenberg Bay - Montagu - Capetown - Cape of Good Hope - CPT - FRA - FMO

Travelogue: It all started with our flight LH572 to Johannesburg. After some 10 hours above the African continent we finally touched down in JNB early in the morning. Our flight further on to Nelspruit Mpumalanga Airport (MQP) was scheduled for 1pm and so we had some hours to kill at JNB which wasn’t a problem for us. The flight to MQP was very nice with a wonderful view onto South Africa’s northern landscape. 1 hour after we departed our small Jetstream 41 touched down in MQP and we tried to get to Nelspruit downtown which was kind of a problem because there are no scheduled bus routes from the airport and taxis were available only on request and had to be called. But the sole telephone inside the airport was not working properly. Finally we managed to get a transfer to town and checked in into Matopos Lodge which we booked just half an hour before and which was lovely with a set of huge balconies on which we had our sundowner beer and enjoyed the stunning view.
Next morning we hired a car to get to the Krüger National Park which we entered through the Malelane Gate. We drove all the way up to Lower Sarbie Rest Camp and were lucky enough to see a lot of wild animals including all “Big Five”:

pumba

Warthog aka “Pumba” looking so funny

reno

Wow! A reno!

lions

Mating lions are a rare sight. We were lucky to see this couple =)

elies

Elephant herd crossing the street infront of us

griraffe

Giraffes were a common sight in Krüger and Kwa Madwala

zebra

Zebra crossing the street infront of us

After spending the night in Lower Sarbie we drove to Kwa Madwala Private Game Reserve where we booked two nights in their Manyatta Rock Camp which lays on a hill overlooking the huge reserve and provides some nice small huts which are designed like rocks from the outside and herewith perfectly fit their rocky surrounding. All huts as well as the viewing and dining terraces offer stunning views onto the bush. See what I am talking about: 

manyattaterrace

Anne on the viewing terrace of Manyatta Rock Camp

manyattahut2

Our “stony” hut at Manyatta Rock Camp

manyattaviewing

The viewing hut which lays in between the rocky hill

manyattahut

Inside the huts were equipped with all luxury you could need

We enjoyed our luxurious stay there and did several game drives and learned a lot about wild-life in South Africa. Because the Rock Camp accomodates only a very limited number of guests we had some nice communicative dinners with our fellow stayers... greetings! =) After our time in Kwa Madwala we went back to Nelspruit Airport and flew back to Johannesburg and further on to Port Elizabeth. Here we stayed in the Chapmans Hotel for the night. Next day we hired another car for the famous Garden Route. One of our stops along the beautiful N2 was the Tsitsikamma National Park where hiking is the main activity. And so we got out of our car and hiked to the Storms River Mouth Suspension Bridge.

tsitsikamma

Inside Tsitsikamma National Park

stormsriver

Part of our walking path to the Stroms River Bridge

Our home for the next two nights should then be the Elephant Hide in Knysna which was the best accomodation during our whole 2 week stay in South Africa. The Elephant Hide lays on a hill a bit outside Knysna overlooking the famous and really lovely Knysna Lagoon and consists of a main building and only five wooden huts. Every unit and the main building with its dining area and pool offers another great and stunning view. Here are some pictures of the Elephant Hide of Knysna.

elephanthidepool

Pool area of the Elephant Hide with two of the huts visible

elephanthidehut2

... which allowed a stunning view onto the Knysna Lagoon

elephanthidehut

The main living and sleeping room inside our hut...

elephanthidehut3

Enjoying the sunset on our terrace

From there we explored some of the sights in and around Knysna. Besides the Knysna Elephant Park we visited Plettenberg Bay and were lucky enough to do some whale watching as there were whales in the bay just a few meters away from shore.

elephant

Getting in touch with a baby elephant at the Knysna Elephant Park

plattenberg

Overview of Plettenberg Bay Area

Next day we left lovely Knysna heading further towards Cape Town which was still some 600 km away and we were alerted that the N2 was closed behind George due to floodings. So we decided not to take the N2 but made our way up to Oudtshoorn (where we visited one of the ostrich farms) and took the R62 until Montagu which should be our home for the night.

ostrich

Ostrich baby in Oudtshoorn

R62

R62 between Oudtshoorn and Ladiesmith

montagu

Montagu

montaguchurch

Montagu

After some 1200 km we finally reached Cape Town where we stayed in the Park Inn at Greenmarket Square for the next 3 nights. The Park Inn is situated right in the middle of Cape Town’s City Bowl and allowes a good city foot-walk including the main sights of the city like Comapny’s Garden, Houses of Parliament, Castle of Good Hope, City Hall, Bo-Kaap and Long Street. The V & A Waterfront was only about 20 minutes away by foot or some 5 minutes by taxi.

waterfrontview

View of Table Mountain and V & A Waterfront after sunset

ZAflagtablemountain

ZA flag with Table Mountain seen from Robben Island Ferry

clocktower

Old Clocktower and Paulaner Bräuhaus within the Waterfront

Cape Town

Cape Town and Table Mountain with “tablecloth”

bo kaap

Cape Malay area Bo Kaap

longstreet

Long Street Cape Town

Of course we also visited Robben Island where Nelson Mandela and many other political prisoners were captured. On top of the Table Mountain (some 1087 m above Cape Town) we enjoyed the breathtaking view. And finally the Cape Peninsula including Simons Town, Cape Point National Park, Cape of Good Hope, Camps Bay and Chapmans Peak Drive was another daytrip with our rental car. For these daytrips we booked the next 2 nights in the Leisure Bay Suites Hotel in Milnerton outside of Cape Town which offered a great view onto Cape Town and Table Mountain with direct beach access.

cable car tablemountain

Up we go! Cape Town seen from the Table Mountain Cable Car

Some 1087 m above Cape Town - Table Mountain N.P.

leisurebay good hope

The Leisure Bay Suites in Milnerton offered gorgeous views

So this is the most south-western point of the african continent =)

camps bay cape of good hope

Camps Bay with the Twelve Apostels in background

Cape of Good Hope seem from Cape Point Lighthouse

kalk bay polo

Colourful beach huts at Kalk Bay Beach

“Our” loyal Volkswagen Polo at Capmans Peak Drive

simons town

Jackass penguins at Simons Town

baboons

Feeding of baboons prohibited sign

baboon

Baboon with Cape of Good Hope in behind

Finally our last travel day was about to end and due to our very early flight (SA262 CPT - FRA which was schedulded for a 7 am departure) we booked our last night in the Road Lodge Hotel opposite the airport. So, after 2 weeks and with the help of several domestic flights and some 1700 km in rental cars we saw a lot of this wonderful country which is really worth a visit! A must-have when it comes to travel! =)

Security: During our stay everything went perfect. Safety was never a big problem. If you stick to the known security precautions there is no reason for not travelling through South Africa on one’s own. With it’s perfect infrastructure travelling around is very easy. Even if you didn’t book all nights in advance there are always small B&Bs along the main routes and most of the accomodations are really good at rather low prices! Also food and services in restaurants and supermarkets are good and cheap! But do not forget: Poverty is all around. Don’t behave stupid and provoke envy. Treat the poor people like the “parking assistants” which will look after your parked car with respect and give them some Rand for their services.

Travel season: Our visit was in late August and early September and even though it was winter time down there this was - without doubt - the perfect travel time for us. We had some overcasted or rainy days but most of the time the sun was our reliable partner. Winter also is low season in South Africa and so prices were lower and availability in hotels or reataurants was never a problem. Also the famous sights, routes and National Parks were never too crowded. And after all, wild-life spotting is much easier in winter. So I would highly recommend the winter as travel season for South Africa.

If you have any further questions about South Africa please contact me via eMail! 

NiK BannerEnd

last update: 2007-09-23

c Nico Kersting